World Surf League

A big part of surfing is learning to judge waves. Competitions are won and lost on wave choice. Experienced surfers can spot the best spot to take off, how each section will work.

That's why there's controvery about surfing making the Olympics. Wave pools like these. Machine made, no more wave choice.

Then again king Kelly has to be one of the best in history when it comes to judging conditions and he's put his stamp all over this.

Either way it looks seriously fun.

Surfholidays.com

Long walk off a short plank... This looks amazing!

Man on a mission - Samโ€™s surf story

Who am I? How did I get surfing? Can anyone learn to surf?

The guys at Still Got Stoke interviewed me, here's what I told them...

http://www.stillgotstoke.com/2017/05/24/man-on-a-mission-sams-surf-story/

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Disconnected.

There's a lot of "poetic license" when people talk about surfing (let's be frank, it's usually brands out to sell something) and not a lot about the grit of it all.

Between the people and the weather, there are a lot of cold days and colder shoulders. Tough paddle outs, sets on the head, sessions so useless that you lose sight of the fun of it all.

Then again, there are days like this.

You can almost hear the board slicing the water, see the grin on his face. Get on boyo, you can't bottle that feeling.

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So blue!

Tenerife late 2016

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Hidden corners in East Oz

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Looks like he's nailing this, right?

Actually, he's pulling out before that whole section in front closes down.

The next wave ended his session, snapping his board as he tried to avoid the rest of the set. (scroll down in my feed, you can see a photo of him walking out with the remains of his board)

Intermediate surfers, this is a lesson for us. It's awesome to progress in surfing, to push ourselves onwards and upwards. But rushing headlong into crazier conditions isn't a good idea.

This guy knew what he was doing and still came a cropper.

With this wave breaking over reef it was an easy enough paddle out. Any one of us could have made it to this line up.

But how far would you have managed to get in his situation?

Always watch the spot (even if you've surfed it before) before you paddle out. Not just for a set either. It's not a "freak set" if it's been happening every 20 minutes for the whole day and you happened to miss it.

Keep going, but don't press yourself too hard, especially without a support network.

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The whitewater scramble.

It's easy to think you're not getting anywhere when you're paddling out through slush.

Screwing up one duckdive or turtle roll and going back to square one. Moving backwards (and forwards) with the motion of the waves. Other surfers passing by, making it look easy.
Any of that sound familiar?

Don't let it get into your head. Just keep trucking, go through the motions and sooner or later you'll punch through to clear water.
Or, you'll swallow your pride and head to the beach before you overdo it. Safe in the knowledge that you've had the best training session possible for the next attempt.

We've all been here (some of us longer than others). Don't give up. Learning to surf involves tiny steps at a time. Take the hits. Learn your lessons.

Visit http://www.overthedune.com for more!

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It's hard to beat wading out for the first time in a while.

That big, deep breath. Taking stock with a lungful of fresh air and the wash of water on your hands.

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Spot the guy on the SUP... The Cribbar when it was boiling over earlier in the year.

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Tearing a new one at El Conquistador

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Signs of life! North Cornwall.

Wind has been battering the local line ups, but every now and again we've had respites like this. Fleeting.

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Deep.

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Beautiful temptress.

Another perfect, EMPTY a-frame along East Coast Australia.

With so many breaks peppered along the highways in plain daylight, I wish I'd had more confidence to paddle out.

Then again, if it went wrong when the nearest help for 1000km in either direction was a bush turkey... ๐Ÿ™

Piledriving lips, submerged rocks and rumoured sharks. I'll chalk this up as a grudge match. One for a more confident future me.

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Down the line. Paradise on the other side of the world.

Indonesia is a funny one. Growing up I thought I'd never get to a "high enough level" of surfing to have the right. The right to surf in a far away land reserved for the sponsored pros.

Turns out going to Bali was the best thing I could have done for my surfing.

Deep reef breaks (not anywhere near as dangerous as you think!), warm water and the most naturally gifted, friendly coaches on the planet.

So, tell me again why you haven't been?

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Last rays. Last waves.

The golden hour is back. Now who's taking the fee for for swell after hours... ๐Ÿ™Œ

http://buff.ly/2ls5zpF

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Here's to that "gentle offshore breeze" and trading waves.

My kingdom for a soulful connnection to nature and other people. That real, visceral stuff that's right in front of us. The freedom.

http://buff.ly/2lkpBlM

Scared of Surfing? Youโ€™re doing it right - Over The Dune | A Surf Blog

Scared of surfing? You're doing it right.

Find out how to deal with fear (especially noting the difference between fear and panic).

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Waves like these - never mind the boardshorts temperature - couldn't feel further away with storms howling on home shores.

Get off it Doris, you windbag. ๐Ÿƒ

http://buff.ly/2lx0nnP

Is Boardmasters a surfer's festival?

Surfer thinking about heading to Boardmasters 2017? Read this...

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Offshore and pumping. I know I'm edging closer to these kind of conditions the more I learn.

I'd take on a (much) smaller brother of this monster. But they still don't half give me the fear.

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Terracotta roofs, lush green and peeling waves? Indonesia.

Don't be fooled by this shot though. Unless it's the dead of night, there will be a minimum of 50/60 people in that line up. With good reason - it's a deep reef in a popular area - a brilliant, consistent wave to learn on. Just watch out for flying minimals!

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Say what you like about winter.

So far in Cornwall it's meant more swell, fewer bodies in the water and all sorts of magic in the sky. It is bloody cold too, mind.

I'm quickly learning how much of a strain a 5mm suit with hood, boots and gloves is, but man, I don't miss those duckdive ice-cream headaches!

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Timing is everything. So they say...

I'll report back when I finally get #barrelled for the first time.

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With the cold locked in and the rush of waves in our ears, stumbling about in freshly squeezed vanilla sunlight. There's nothing else in the world.

Getting out of bed predawn with a 10 ton anchor tied to our temples. Frost underfoot. Breath drifting off in clouds, coming back to slice our nostrils.

Then we make it. Awake as birds. Alive as fire. Cold and creaking with morning aches but ready. Grinning.

We talk about presence of mind. We all say things like "release" and "freedom".

We're in the UK. It's Winter. We surf. ---------------------------------------------------
#cold #surf #fresh #yellow #beautiful #moment #surfer #sun #silhouette #longboarder #cornwall #uksurf #England #sea #coldwater #commitment #freezing #watersports #adventure #omgb #sport #action

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Cold water waves in North Cornwall. Raw power, rushing on.

Tick follows tock follows tick follows tock...

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The #cribbar was firing at lunch time (low tide 16.12.16).

Crowds filled the headland to watch some of the nation's best take on rolling Atlantic monsters. In Cornwall, England would you believe!?

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I expected a few things when I moved to Cornwall. Snapping #dolphins on a Wednesday afternoon was not one of them... -------------------------------------- #winter #watergatebay #watergate #sea #surf #surfers #surfphoto #surfphotography #Cornwall #love #nofilter #splitsecond #ocean #blue #flipper #pod #lucky #lineup #instagood #viewfromhere #England #uk #nature #wildlife #free

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It'll be hard to top this moment. Straight after my first Fiji surf, sharing crystal clear waves with @josh_kerr84 (towing his daughter every paddle back out for "training" - legend!) and a pod of 50 dolphins. -------- #nofilter believe it or not. --------------------------------------------------- #fiji #crystalclear #happy #love #tavarua #reef #reefbreak #lucky #onceinalifetime #surf #bula #stoked #frothing #paddle #blue #boardshorts #warm #instagood #photooftheday #tongue #travel #travelphoto #surfphoto

What Are "Goofy" and "Regular" Stances? - Over The Dune | A Surf Blog

What Are โ€œGoofyโ€ and โ€œRegularโ€ Stances?

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It's all about the dismount! ๐ŸŒŠ๐ŸŠ#wipeout On a serious note - learning to fall properly is a crucial part of surfing new breaks. It'll be different as the conditions change, but some general rules for learners: Fall shallow (spread out!). Land on your padding (bum first). Protect your head, especially when resurfacing. #learntosurf #surflesson #surfer #waves #surfing #surfphotography #bail #fall #sea #ocean #surflessons #getsurfing

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Sunset at #watergatebay. The sun has been dripping gold, but the cold is setting in. Either way, moving to Cornwall, to the coast, was the best decision I've ever made. If I want to learn to surf it's time I took it more seriously... #learntosurf #sunset #winter #wintersun #winterswell #surf #surfing #waves #golden #goldenhour #beautiful #watergate #Cornwall #southwest #getsurfing #orange #sea #ocean #surfphotography

Short Boards are Bad (learners!) - Over The Dune | A Surf Blog

Would you walk out into the middle of a packed gym to try your first backflip? Take up tightrope walking 100ft high?

Perennial Plate

Surfing and the environment. It's bigger than us.

A guide to Surfing in Sri Lanka - Over The Dune | A Surf Blog

Ever thought about surfing in Sri Lanka? Here's part 1 of everything you need to know... http://buff.ly/2gSh5wh #surf #srilanka

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When you're learning to surf, there are days when you have to just sit out and watch. Fistral beach, Newquay. #fistral #waves #cornwall #omgb #dramatic #weather #swell #bigwaves #landscape #surf #surfing #crazy #learntosurf #kernow #spray #setwave #grey #southwest #England #britain #travel #surftravel #travelphotography

Short Boards are Bad (learners!) - Over The Dune | A Surf Blog

In surfing, your fighting chance is the foamie.

Take your time, get to know the sport. When itโ€™s time to start trying out other boards, youโ€™ll know it!

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Drawing lines on Ulu walls. If you need inspiration, watching atheletes lile this performing on overhead waves should do the trick! Don't forget, they go there the same way we will. Step by step. ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ‡ฒ๐Ÿ‡จ #surf #inspiration #uluwatu #surfing #overhead #reefbreak #bali #indonesia #cutback #surfturn #style #travel #surfphoto #surfblog #travelstories #sea #blue #learntosurf #indo #stylishsurf #prosurf #incredible #oneday #ulus #splitsecond #bigwave

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The first exposure you had to surfing. That wave you're always drawing, the one you imagined after seeing your first edit or poster. It's called Pipeline. #oahu #hawaii #bucketlist Photo: @jeffdivinephoto #pipelinesurf #learntosurf #trysurf #getsurfing #surfwaves #surfing #surfer #tropical #barrel #waves #surfphotography #surfphoto #learningtosurf #getbarrelled #shacked #sea #ocean #palmtrees #travel #incredible #wanderlust #momentintime #splitsecond #blue #beach

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The warm glow. That feeling you get when you've had a decent session. You wiped out over and over, the cold got right into your bones and you got caught inside more than once... But the sea refreshed you like nothing else could, and your face still aches after hours of grinning like an idiot. Beauty. #nothinglikeit #surf #thatfeeling #tenerife #playadelasamericas #exploretenerife @thomascookairlinesuk #sunset #orange #goldenhour #surfblog #travelblog #surfphotography #travelphoto #beach #volcanic #reefbreak #silhouette #surfer #surfboard #getsurfing #warmglow #fulfilled #satisfaction #todayisbeautiful #wanderlust #outside #freedom

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One of those moments... Looks beautiful from the shore, but no doubt he's just worrying about dinging his board on that shallow reef! #bali #balisurf #shallowreef #reefbreak #beautiful #glass #beautifulworld #crystalclear #ocean #sea #wanderlust #surfphoto #surfphotography #traveller #travel #travelphotography #surfblog #overthedune #getsurfing #learntosurf #paddle #surfer #shallow #Indonesia #ulus #uluwatu

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Chuffed! Job done at The Pass, Byron Bay. Loads of anti-traveller signs knocking about and it was was busy as hell in the line up... Until the shark call! The beach might as well have had a ski lift: with the rip pushing the hundreds of surfers down the point so quickly there was a constant crowd running back to the top. #Pointbreakproblems #busy #busyashell #byronbay #thepass #eastcoastoz #pointbreak #learntosurf #surfstory #surflesson #getsurfing #surf #surfing #intermediatesurflesson #australia #travel #travelblog #surfblog #surfblogger #travellersautobarn @travellersautobarn

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Balinese priests making their offerings to the sea. It makes sense that the locals are so welcoming when their culture and beliefs are bred on "giving back". Canggu, Bali. The perfect place to learn/improve on submerged reefs, but boy is the secret out. If you don't like crowded line ups- go anywhere else in the world. @thebalibible #surf #surflessons #getsurfing #balisurf #surfcoach #friendly #locals #religious #hindu #balilocal #bagus #ombak #bagusbagus #learntosurf #surfblogger #travelblog #travel #bali #indo #ig_global_life #beach @bali_vibes #wanderlust #ig_photooftheday #ig_travelerworld #world_great

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